5 Sewing Techniques You Should Never Skip (Even If the Pattern Doesn’t Mention Them)

Learning to sew is like learning anything else — it takes time, patience, and commitment to master all the techniques needed to put together a garment and truly understand the craft. Because yes, sewing is a craft.

When you think about it, making your own clothes involves a lot of steps: choosing fabric, pre-washing fabric, picking a pattern, altering that pattern to fit you, cutting or tracing it, cutting your fabric, marking notches, pinning, sewing, test-fitting, finishing… and if you’re like me, documenting the whole thing. That means taking notes, photographing the finished garment, and then — because apparently that’s not enough — writing a blog post about it.

If you’re new to sewing, that might sound overwhelming, but trust me, it’s not as bad as it seems. You usually learn the techniques in that order, and the more you do it, the more the process starts to feel like following a well-worn thread — familiar, but always leading you somewhere new. When I first started, I found it incredibly challenging to choose the right fabric. But after picking the wrong fabric a few times, you learn quickly. For example, if I wanted to make a button-up shirt with a collar, I probably wouldn’t choose slippery silk or satin as a beginner. You can make a shirt from those fabrics, but it’s like trying to run before you can walk. Even after eight years of sewing, I still don’t sew with silk — my little Singer sewing machine would probably eat it.

The thing is, there’s a lot to learn. Over time, your instincts improve — you start to know how to insert a sleeve or sew a button placket without second-guessing. But — and this is the point of this blog post — there are a few techniques that you should learn early and never skip, even if the pattern instructions leave them out (and yes, that happens!).

Here are five sewing techniques that I believe are essential for most garments and worth the extra effort.

1. Understitching

Understitching is when you stitch a facing or lining to its seam allowance so it stays neatly inside the garment and doesn’t roll out to the front.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been following a pattern only to notice the instructions don’t mention it. Sometimes, by the time I realise, it’s too late to go back, and I always regret it. Without understitching, collars don’t sit as neatly and facings tend to pop out — and nothing ruins a polished look faster. (I am still on the fence about facings but that’s a topic that can wait for another day)

2. Marking Notches and Points

Every good pattern includes notches and markings — and they’re there for a reason. They show you exactly where different pieces of a garment should join.

For example:

• Two notches on the back of a sleeve match two notches on the sleeve cap so you know you’re inserting it correctly.

• A dot marking the tip of a bust dart ensures you stop stitching just before the bust apex for the right shaping.

Skipping these markings is like losing your place in the pattern — easy to do, and hard to fix once the fabric’s cut. Take the time to mark them and you’ll keep your sewing on track.

3. Interfacing

When I first started sewing, I skipped interfacing entirely — partly because I didn’t know what it was, and partly because I didn’t have any on hand. Big mistake.

If a pattern calls for interfacing, it’s because that area needs structure, stability, or both. Think of a collar — it needs interfacing on one side so it stands nicely — or a button placket, where interfacing helps prevent stretching, ripping, or sagging over time.

Two key tips:

• Choose the right weight. Too heavy, and the garment will be stiff; too light, and it won’t do its job.

• Buy good quality. Cheap interfacing can bubble or ripple after washing.

4. Making a Toile (Fit Test)

Okay, I’ll admit it: I often skip this step. But every time I do, I risk disaster.

A toile (or muslin) is a test version of your garment, usually made from inexpensive fabric, to check the fit and make adjustments before cutting into your “real” fabric. When you’ve spent $50 per metre on your dream fabric, the last thing you want is a too-tight waistband or sleeves that pull.

I’m still learning to slow down and make a toile — but every time I do, I’m grateful for the effort.

5. Sewing Two Rows of Gathering Stitches

When gathering fabric (like attaching a gathered skirt to a bodice), most patterns tell you to sew two rows of long stitches:

• One just inside the seam allowance.

• One just outside the seam allowance.

This helps create neat, even gathers and makes it easier to control the fabric. I confess, I often only sew one row because I can’t face unpicking stitches if needed. But every time I do that, the gathers end up uneven, skewed, or even flat in places. Two rows give you a stronger “thread” to pull on, keeping the gathers consistent and the finish smooth.

Final Thoughts
Some people will read this and think, “I never do that, and my garments turn out fine.” And that’s great! Sewing is a personal craft, and we all interpret the “rules” differently. I don’t always follow all of these myself. But honestly? When I do, I’m always happier with the results — and since some garments in my wardrobe get worn for years, it’s worth the effort.

Every garment you make teaches you something new. Each time you follow these techniques, you weave another thread into your skills, levelling up with every project until your sewing becomes a craft you can be proud of.

So… what about you? Are there sewing techniques you know you should do, but sometimes skip and regret?

Happy Sewing!

Check out the wonderful Sewcial Sewing community over on Instagram @sewcial_sewing and Facebook.