Why Do Sewists Add Pockets to Everything? A Look at the History and Practicality

The Power of Pockets

This week, another podcast episode got me thinking. I recently listened to an episode from Threads Power where they shared a brief history of pockets and it got me thinking about my desire to put pockets in everything!

A Sewist’s Love Affair With Pockets

If you speak to any sewist, they’ll tell you about their love for a good pocket. If you make a dress, you’ll often be asked, “Does it have pockets?” Kylie and The Machine even has a sew-in label that proudly states “It Has Pockets”, which many sewists add to their garments with pride.

When asked, most people will argue, “Why wouldn’t I add pockets? They’re practical!” After all, we’re often multitasking—because, well, we’re women—and being able to shove your keys, phone, tissues, post-it notes, or even your leftover lunch into a pocket and keep moving is what it’s all about.

The History of Pockets

But listening to this podcast, I realised I’d never considered that my longing for pockets might be... hereditory.

Before the 17th century, women’s clothing wasn’t designed with pockets. If women wanted to carry their belongings, they had to make do with tie-on pockets, hidden beneath multiple layers of clothing. And we’re talking up to seven layers—so accessing anything in public would have been practically impossible. These pockets were hidden, not functional.

From Tie-On Pockets to Handbags

Eventually, those tie-on pouches evolved into the handbag, now considered a standard fashion accessory. But why were women denied the ability to carry their possessions publicly—or worse, in visible pockets?

I was shocked to discover it all stemmed from control.

Women simply weren’t allowed to have them because it was deemed unnecessary. Men carried everything for us—money, keys, papers—so why would we need storage space? Our role was to look good, and bulky objects might detract from our elegance or, heaven forbid, suggest independence.

The Rational Dress Movement and Pocket Power

Pockets didn’t start appearing in mainstream women’s clothing until women began demanding them.

In 1881, the Rational Dress Society (seriously, how cool is that name?) formed to insist that women’s clothing be healthy, comfortable, and beautiful. They argued that long skirts were impractical, heavy, and even dangerous—injuries from tripping were common, and corsets literally displaced internal organs.

Along with railing against corsets and impractical skirts, women also demanded pockets.

A 1910 New York Times article titled “PLENTY OF POCKETS IN SUFFRAGETTE SUIT ” mentioned a new fashion design:

The coat-why, the coat is just a short thing with pockets in the side, hugging the collar close like a man's coat. The skirt, or the lower part of the costume, is divided. But it is not merely a divided skirt. The legs of the garment are pressed into proper creases before and behind, and are turned up at the bottom. This garment has two pockets in front and two behind. Indeed, the whole costume has seven or eight pockets, all in sight and all easy to find, even by the wearer.

This was the start of practical clothing for women, and pockets quickly became popular for their sheer usefulness.

The Disappearing Pocket

So, you’d think after all that hard-fought progress, pockets would be here to stay. Unfortunately, by the mid-20th century, the ultra-feminisation of women’s fashion led to tighter clothing—and once again, pockets began to disappear.

Even now, a lot of women’s clothing still lacks functional pockets. Have you ever picked up a lovely jacket and thought, “Ooh, look at those pockets,” only to discover they’re fake? As sewists, we know that’s even worse—they actually went to the trouble of creating a welt pocket but didn’t bother adding a pocket bag!

And when garments do have pockets, they’re still not as practical as men’s. A 2018 study found that pockets in women’s jeans are 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than those in men’s. While men can easily carry a wallet or phone in their front pockets, we can barely fit our hands.

So... Why Do I Love Pockets So Much?

My takeaway this week is that I’m an even bigger fan of pockets than I thought. Maybe my love for large, functional pockets really does stem from a deep, historical longing—and a desire to feel equal.

But more than anything, I add pockets to what I make because I actually use them. Plus, what else am I supposed to do with my hands when I’m stuck in a deep conversation with a stranger I’m trying to politely escape?

What do you think? Do you add pockets to everything too?

Happy Sewing!

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